Travel On The Level

Vukovar

Following World War II, Marshall Josef Tito cobbled Yugoslavia together by combining a number of previously autonomous states. When he died, the struggle of those countries, beginning with Croatia and Slovenia, to regain independence brought simmering resentments and prejudices to the fore. The confrontations were ugly, in many cases involving ethnic cleansing, beginning at Vukovar where 1,500 militia members battled a 20,000-strong, well-armed Serbian army that wanted to hold Yugoslavia together. When the last defender died 90 days later, a massacre ensued.

Vukovar water tower. Photos © by Judy Wells.

Unrestored building.

Most of the city was destroyed as was its number one business, the manufacture of shoes. Physically, much has been repaired and restored, but the city still shows the results and its guides make sure visitors hear their side. Some of the buildings have been left alone,  especially the bullet-riddled water tower that once boasted a revolving restaurant, and now is a symbol of the city and country's successful resistance.

Church of  St. Philip and St. Jacob, after the war above, and now.

After a guitar and cello concert by two talented students at the local music academy, we walked to the 17th century Franciscan Church of St. Philip and St. Jacob. Largely destroyed during the war, it has been lovingly restored.

Downtown Vukovar.

The once booming city center (only a quarter of the prewar population has returned) is flat, a boon for Levelers. The Maria Theresa-era baroque style architecture adds grace to the almost empty streets.

A delight to visit is Castle Eltz.  http://www.turizamvukovar.hr/vukovar_eng.php?stranica=170. The 18th century home has become the Vucovar Municipal Museum, with creative displays ranging from Neolithic artifacts to exquisitely embroidered clothing.

Tip: The museum is compact and there is an elevator that connects all floors.

Osijek

A short bus trip takes us to the city saved by ferrets. Hit by the plague in 1738, Osijek seemed doomed until city fathers brought in a force of famished ferrets. The beasts made short work of the diseased, plague-carrying rats. We see icons of ferrets in the city seal and advertisements.

Historic Trinity Square was filled with the monthly antiquities fair, a glorified flea market ringed by booths of food purveyors. We were turned loose to visit the cathedral and other buildings, but I can't tell you about them. Wandering the square and people watching was much more fun than yet another church or museum.

Tip: Arrive on the first Saturday of the  month to catch the Fair. The Square and the streets around it are cobblesone, but flat aside from a curb-height step or two.

We are welcomed to the home of Zorica and Voja Vojislav.

The food looked grand but we were to divide into small groups to have lunch in nearby local homes. I found it a fun experience with genial, gracious hosts and the best apple strudel our lucky group of nine had ever tasted.

Returning to River Splendor that afternoon provided the opportunity to get a closer look at riverfront sculptures, all memorials to those who died in the Serbian-Croatian war.

All in all, an easy day for Levelers.