Travel On The Level

A nighttime cruise through Budapest with its Parliament a highlight for river cruisers. Photo © by Judy Wells.

River cruises are ideal for Levelers, especially if time and funds are limited.

• The scheduling, meals and touring are taken care of for you.
• There are no waves so no seasickness.
• Modern river ships not only have elevators (although on board you will rarely need to handle more than one flight of stairs), they come with chair lifts so anyone can reach the uppermost deck.
• You are either a short, easy stroll from town or the tour buses drive right down to the pier.
There are drawbacks.
• You may stay too long in one place, not long enough in another.
• Your meals and beverages are included in the fare so you aren't likely to get the true flavors of where you are unless the chef includes local specialties as options at every meal.
• Tours are also included so you are less likely to go exploring on your own.

Nonetheless, I highly recommend them, especially for areas that might intimidate you.

I took Vantage River Cruise Travel's nine-day cruise aboard River Splendor going downriver from Budapest to Bucharest.

Tip: Whenever possible opt for downriver. Going with the current you are less likely to have problems with water levels and will reach stops earlier, giving you more time at each destination.

Pest's Palace Hill.  Photo © by Judy Wells.

Budapest
The Danube divides Budapest. Buda,where the city began, rises quickly from the waterfront with Fisherman's Bastion and St. Matthias Church the focus for tourists. The old city is charming and hilly, the views across the river are spectacular. The tour bus will deliver you as close as possible and the elevation change is gentle.

Matthias Church. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Tip: I recommend climbing up to the walkway above Fisherman's Bastion despite its 32-step stairs.

Fisherman's Bastion. Photo © by Judy Wells.

The ship tied up on the Pest side which is largely flat. Shuttle buses ran in the afternoon between there and the Intercontinental Hotel making forays into the city easy.

A portion of the shoes memorial. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Tips: The two-story Central Market has elevators at both ends. There are 28 steps from street to river level; take them because you don't want to miss the heart-rending bronze shoes sculpture, a memorial to the Jews gunned down here during World War II.

Fields of sunflowers. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Mohacs and Kolacsa
 The ship moors in Mohacs and passengers are bused to Kolacsa through fields of corn, sunflowers and peppers, Hungary's primary cash crops.

Kolasca Cathedral. Photo © by Judy Wells.

A short walking tour of Kolasca goes to the Cathedral, one of the finest examples of Italian Baroque. After that the bus takes us back to the Blue Danube Restaurant in Mohacs where we are given lessons in making paprika bread, snapping whips, painting eggs and embroidery. The ship is a short stroll away.

A cruise passenger paints and egg. Photo © by Judy Wells.

In the afternoon an optional tour goes to Bakod Puszta equestrian center for a demonstration of the Hungarian Halfblood horses and Chikos, Hungarian cowboys.

Roman riding atop a 10-horse team. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Tip: No major exertion required for this, primarily walking on flat, paved walks and finding seats in the visitors' covered bleachers.

Pecs
A center of culture for centuries, Pecs is known for its university, Peter and Paul Basilica and most of all, the remains of its Roman founders, a UNESCO Heritage site.

One of the earliest and largest Roman Christian Chapels outside of Italy has been excavated and opened to the public through an ingenious series of ramps and, unfortunately for Levelers, stairs.

Overview of Roman-built Christian Chapel. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Tip: The elevator was out of order when I visited so here is the step count: 17 steps to the overview, 18 spiral steps to one level, 18 spiral steps down, 11 steps, 22 steps and 17 steps. It is made easier by varying levels and having something to see at each.

Peter and Paul Basilica. Photo © by Judy Wells.

The Basilica is considerably easier - 5 steps to Cathedral Square, 7 into the church which is well worth a leisurely look.

Wandering through this town is pleasant and easy thanks to its relatively flat level.