By bus, bicycle or on foot, devoted pilgrims flock to this town to pray to the small statue of at the Virgin of San Juan de los Lagos, known to natives as Cihuapilli, Great Lady.
It is a moving spectacle, an evocation of belief and faith rarely seen north of the border. I couldn't watch very long - my replaced knees ached with sympathy pains - but I'm glad I negotiated the steep hills to see it.
The small statue of the Virgin Mary is credited with many miracles. Pope John Paul made his pilgrimage in 1990 and since the 17th century the Basilica has become the second most visited shrine in Mexico.
If nothing else, the cultural clash in the juxtaposition of T-shirts, towels, even bedspreads decorated with images of the Virgin, Christ, wrestlers, super hero or cartoon characters are a sure sign you're not in Kansas anymore.