Travel On The Level

Sunrise from the Southern Belle. Photo© by Judy Wells.

Resort lovers who want to be able to make a quick run to a McDonald's or Starbucks head north to Nags Head and Duck when they reach North Carolina's Outer Banks. Those seeking a get-away with local color and new experiences turn south toward Bodie Island, Rodanthe, Avon, Frisco and Cape Hatteras.

Locals down here brag that you have to drive 45 miles to reach those Golden Arches.

"You got to get used to this place," said tour guide Danny Couch, a 10th generation Carolinian who married into island life. "It's not like it is at home."

You can find Wi-Fi connections, but no chain restaurants, hardly a sacrifice with a plethora of home-owned, home-sourced cafes and restaurants. Lots of things to do and see, too, if looking at, walking along and swimming in the ocean isn't entertaining enough.

Leveler tip #1: Get an elevator.

These are among the smaller beach houses. Photo © by Judy Wells.

It isn't a luxury. Forget cozy little one-story beach houses. If you want oceanfront - and who doesn't - McMansions are the rule. These pastel-hued two-, three-,  four- and more-story belles of the beach are designed for group gatherings. A week at the beach rental destination with three to six bedrooms, large porches, viewful turrets, entertainment systems, elaborately outfitted kitchens and, if the owners are smart, an elevator.

First floors are for tucking the car in and letting the Atlantic roll through. Second floors are usually all bedrooms and baths and living spaces begin on three. That's a lot of schlepping up stairs.

The Southern Belle - 23 steps up to the second floor. Photo © by Judy Wells.

The Southern Belle, where we five journalists stayed, came with a 3-person-sized  elevator, a good thing when there are 23 steps up to the second floor. Trust me, you'll want one.

Leveler tip #2: Plot your access to the beach. 

You may have a long walk plus stairs to reach the beach. Photo © by Judy Wells.

If you snag beachfront accommodations, plan on negotiating stairs. The dunes developed in the 1930s and '50s have grown and it can be a long walk to reach the stairways down to beach level.

It's legal to drive on the beach. Ramps at mile marker (MM), OBX (Outer Banks) method to relay locations, 49 and 23 are recommended.

Easy-walk beach access. Photo © by Judy Wells.

The only level place to park and walk to the beach is in Avon between Koru Village Beach Club and the Avon Pier.

Leveler tip #3: Eat local.

Photo © by Judy Wells.

Look for the "Outer Banks Catch" sticker on the door of restaurants to ensure they're serving fresh, local catch.

Leveler tip #4: Getting connected. 

The Dancing Turtle. Photo © by Judy Wells.

If your rental doesn't have Wi-Fi and you feel the need for connection, make a beeline for The Dancing Turtle Coffee Shop in Hatteras Village. They have that plus good coffees and teas, enticing pastries, comfy chairs and tables and a warm camaraderie.

Leveler tip #5: Need groceries?

The Food Lion in Avon is the only major grocery store in the southern Outer Banks.

Leveler tip #6: Speak like a native.

Pamlico - PAM-lick o

Bodie - body

Manteo - Man-TEE-O

Rodanthe - Row- DAN- the

Ocracoke - OH-crah-coke

Leveler tip #7: Be friendly OBX native-style.

When driving along the two-lane road that runs down the island, "chuck a howdy" - a casual one- or two-finger wave with a nod of your head - to cars you meet.

 Next: where to eat and what to see and do on the Outer Banks.

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You can tour the empty, echoing halls of government, climbing tier after tier of steps or, if you go to Tallahassee, Florida, you can see native wildlife - bears, buzzards, eagles, fox, wolves, panthers, gators and more - in its native habitat; experience an Apalachee council house and joint native and Spanish settlement at Mission San Luis; and relive the days of Prohibition in a modern-day speakeasy, complete with secret password and passageways.

Gator territory at Tallahassee Museum. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Along the way, you'll find excellent food, from country store to produce market, sophisticated restaurants to a kick-back oyster bar and every variation in between. Seafood comes from local rivers and the nearby Gulf of Mexico, produce from area farms, recipes from great grandmothers to high-Gucci chefs.

A recent press trip opened my eyes to the capitol fun to be had there and I wanted to share.

Tip: Levelers, Tallahassee is one of the few cities in Florida with hills so you will encounter elevation changes and steps. However, elevation shifts are relatively minor and flights tend to be short and accompanied by ramps and/or elevators.

Museum of Florida History. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Museums.

Treasures from storm-wrecked Spanish Galleons, Photo © by Judy Wells.

If you're into Florida history, this is the place to come. Archives and artifacts abound. If all you want is an entertaining overview, it's the place, too, the Museum of Florida History. Kids will like Herman the Mastadon, you'll like seeing treasures of the New World lost en route to the Old World.

Civil war tent. Photo © by Judy Wells.

The special Viva Florida exhibit takes you from first encounters between old and new in Florida to the state's entry into the Civil War.

Easy walks through swamps and wild animal habitat. Photo © by Judy Wells.

The 52-acre Tallahassee Museum looks nothing like a museum. An easy boardwalk takes you through the wildlife habitats and by sculptor Jim Gary's whimsical 20th century dinosaurs.

Can you find the crankcase? Photo © by Judy Wells.

Wander through the 19th century Florida village or take the zip line which is a bit of zipping plus a lot of fitness, balance and team building-type segments in 73 platforms.

More balance challenge than zip. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Warning: "Zip" stuff is not recommended for Levelers; otherwise, although there is a lot of walking, it's on the level with plenty of reasons to stop and sit a bit.

Apalachee Council House. Photo © by Judy Wells.

If you think of native American dwellings as crude huts or tepees, Mission San Luis will knock your socks off. The 125-foot diameter, five-story-high (!) Council House is built over and to the exact size of the original destroyed by fire in 1704. More than 100 years before Spanish missions reached California, the Spanish and Apalachees had created the most prosperous of missions, sending extra produce and pelts overland to St.Augustine or to Cuba from St. Marks where Spanish galleons put in.

Firing demonstration at the Spanish fort attached to Mission San Luis. Photo © by Judy Wells.

A Spanish fort and village, a Franciscan chapel and re-enactors make this a must see bit of history that even the kids will enjoy.

Goodwood Plantation. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Goodwood Museum and Gardens began as a 2,500-acre plantation, went through five private owners after being built in 1834, inspired inheritance case law when the original owner was lost at sea and remained a plantation until finally becoming a museum. Most unusual, 85 percent of the furniture stayed with the house as it changed owners over the years; there's also more than 900 articles of clothing previous owners left behind.

Neo-classical pool pavillon. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Tip: You will encounter a short set of stairs getting in and one flight of stairs inside the house and the gardens are level. 

Where to Eat/Drink

Lobster too? Photo © by Judy Wells.

Good things come in small,packages and the tiny Paisley Cafe in Midtown for breakfast or lunch will start your day off with a smile. Ebullient owner/chef Kiersten "Kiki" Worrell uses only the freshest, finest ingredients and no preservatives for her down-home cooking with an international twist.  Her biscuits are to die for, the apple butter is made in house and she whisks grits to perfection. The food would be totally healthy if you didn't want to eat so much of it.

Lobster and biscuits. Photo © by Judy Wells.

If taste buds call for seafood at lunch, dinner or Sunday brunch, head for The Front Porch. Former "Chop" champ, Chef Joe Rego, heads up a kitchen that turns out creative combinations of regional fare with a delicious influx of Maine lobster. The drinks are good, too, and the decor will mellow you out. You won't go home hungry and you might take one of Fred Fisher's gyotaku prints as a memento.

View from Level 8. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Don your chicest duds for sunset cocktails on the terrace at Level 8 atop the beautifully restored Hotel Duval. Bar snacks are excellent and designed for sharing. Chef Chris Leynes' rosemary, lemon toasted nuts and pretzels with a touch of bacon are addictive. [See and try the recipe at Food Afar - Recipes from a Travel Writer.]

Pecan crusted red grouper, bourbon-smashed sweet potatoes, collards and pot likker, Photo © by Judy Wells.

Florida Golden Spoon Hall of Fame member Cypress won't disappoint either. More likely, the clean flavors and creative pairings will delight you. I can attest to deliciousness of the Pecan Crusted Red Grouper with Bourbon-Smashed Sweet Potatoes, Collard Greens and Pot Likker. At the risk of spoiling your appetite, start with a selection of cheeses including Sweet Grass Dairy Green Hill from just up the road in Thomasville, GA.

Beef brisket from Avenue Eat and Drink.

It's hard to judge Avenue Eat and Drink  fairly for they had set up a food and wine pairing experience for us. After a snitty, under-informed waiter finally agreed to seat us (actually we sat ourselves) things leveled out and we had a delicious albeit meat-heavy series of dishes. The lamb chop and beef brisket were irresistible and the saled was superb. Others dining from the menu seemed to be enjoying themselves. I'll try it again.

My pork dish was delish. Photo © by Judy Wells.

If you want live music with your meal try Mockingbird Cafe. Service was spotty the night I was there. The kitchen seemed to be overwhelmed and some orders were mixed up, my meal was good if not memorable, but our waitress's knowledge of wine and spirits helped make up for the snafus.

Preparing the absinthe. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Mixologists at Alchemy Speakeasy live up to their name, turning out cocktails the old-fashioned way - no pre-mix - one glass at a time, often at your table. It takes some hunting down to find it, drinks are pricey, but the experience is a fun one. E-mail alex@alchemymidtown.com and make a reservation (don't forget the password) or stop and ask at the Midtown Filling Station. You'll be surprised by what can be hidden in a nondescript office park.

Want beer, oysters and a jolly atmosphere with absolutely no pretensions? Try the Aphrodesiac Oyster Shack. Trivia, comedy, karaoke and trash cinema nights are served along with fresh Appalachicola oysters, burgers and other bar fare.

Food memories to take home.

Tomato Land for take-home fare. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Tomato Land, not far from Paisley Cafe, sells locally produced sauces, jams, jellies, meats and other kitchen must-haves along with fresh produce.

The drive to Bradley's. Photo © by Judy Wells.

You can find Bradley's whole hog sausage there, but you'll be missing a local treat not to venture out to Bradley's Country Store, circa 1927. It's a pretty drive out Centerville Highway that will take you back to simpler times when you reach the store. Creaking wood floors, a cold drink box and at the back, a cold case full of sausage links, smoked pork chops. hams and shoulders. 

Bradley's Country Store, sausage central. Photo © by Judy Wells.

"Nothing's finer than to sit in a rocking chair on the front porch with a sausage dog in one hand and a cold drink in the other," said one otherwise sophisticated devotee.

Worked for me.

Leia Mais…

Travel is strenuous under the best of circumstances which is why we are always on the lookout for outstanding products. I have not personally tested any of these but they were voted winners by the pros who design, manufacturer and order travel gear for us to purchase.

Here, then, are the winners of the 2013 Travel Goods Association show's Product Innovation.

First Place

Travelpro's Platinum Magna luxury collection. The Awards Committee selected the collection for its MagnaTrac self-aligning wheel system. When Platinum Magna is pushed, magnets instantly align the wheels to roll straight in the direction you want to go. Most spinner luggage drifts or pulls to one side or the other, putting strain on shoulder, arm, wrist and hand. Platinum Magna tracks effortlessly in all directions. The Platinum Magna 21" Spinner's MSRP is $640.

Second Place

Rimowa's new ONYX 13" Laptop Bag. Weighing in at less than 3 pounds, the case is extremely lightweight yet tremendously versatile. Made from RIMOWA's signature 100% virgin German polycarbonate, the case is equipped to protect valuable contents in its interior, such as laptops and tablets. It also includes protective front and back pockets for convenient access to travel documents, notes or personal items. The case will debut later in 2013; the MSRP is still to be determined.

Third Place (TIE)



Delsey's Helium Aero International Carry-on Expandable Trolley. The carry-on boasts a hardside exterior pocket, and is one of the few hardside collections that expands two inches, offering added packing space when needed, and also features a hardside, exterior front pocket - something previously lacking in hardside luggage. The large, easy-access pocket opens all the way to the bottom of the case and conveniently stores computers, electronics, tickets, documents, or toiletries and other items travelers may wish to retrieve during their trip, and boasts a padded sleeve. Its MSRP is $179.99.


The Travel Halo travel pillow. Made to be worn as a halo around the crown of the head, the pillow's innovative design holds travelers' heads in place with two small cushions on the back of the head. It also offers a built-in, roll-down eye mask that comes down to shield travelers' eyes from light. The Travel Halo's MSRP is $29.99.

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Quebec City from above. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Quebec City is too pretty, its buildings too interesting, the views too photo-worthy  to go underground as one can in Montreal. You don't want to miss a block of its well-documented charm which can be a challenge for Levelers in winter.

Warning: I was there in February and if the temperature ever went below freezing, it was only to produce new patches of ice. Walking and gawking is out of the question; you will hit ice and you will fall.

Still, there's something magical about a city swathed in snow and if nothing else, icy patches make you stop, allowing closer looks and a greater appreciation of what you're seeing.

The city climbs from a small, level stretch along the St. Lawrence River where it all began to a ridge dominated by the Chateau Frontenac Hotel then up to Parliament and the Plain of Abraham, home of the annual Winter Carnival, the largest.

Views from the river are stunning and it's easy to see why the Frontenac is called the world's most photographed hotel. Overviews of the city from the top are equally stunning. I stayed at the Hilton where the views down are spectacular. The only problem: they are so good that as considering the cold and ice outside you might be tempted to spend the day in your room looking out.

What a shame that would be with the fascinating places to see and delicious spots to eat.

Bonhomme personifies winter Carnival.

Winter Carnival.  It's a daunting prospect for Levelers, an event celebrating the snow and ice of winter set in snow and ice, but if you're in town while it's running, don't miss it, especially the special events. Bonhomme, a giant white, sash, cap sunglass-wearing and much beloved mascot, reigns over all.

Another human foosball game begins. Photo © by Judy Wells.

 The carnival itself has the small-town, almost provincial feel of a fair with its ice carving contests, human foosball games, children's activities, a ferris wheel and sledding run.

Get your caribou outside on inside. Photo © by Judy Wells.

There are food booths and leave it to the French to include adult beverages in the mix. The Bistro tent is always popular, especially the toe-warming Caribou (recipe at my Food Afar - Recipes from a Travel Writer blog, http://www.foodafar.blogspot.com/2013/02/quebec-citys-bonhomme-caribou.html).

Hot tubs were popular day and night at Winter Carnival. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Oddly, equally popular are the hot tubs. Quebecois really dig winter!

Warning: At night it turns into a dance party, but I wouldn't recommend this; too much ice, too little lighting. Go in the daytime.

An ice canoe racing team practices in the St. Lawrence River. Photo © by Judy Wells.

The special events - canoe racing across a partially frozen river, night parades and creative light shows, racing horses pulling skiers around a course of challenges - are about as special as you can get.  

Tip: Worth pushing yourself to see, Levelers.

Other things to do

Tour the Hotel de Glace. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Tour of the Hotel de Glace, where those who care more for unique experiences than creature comforts an spend the night.

Anglican Church of the Holy Trinity. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Check out the churches. The first Anglican cathedral built outside the British Isles,  Anglican Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, is modeled after London's St.-Martin-in-the-Fields thanks to the largess of King George III (the one who lost the colonies and was profiled in "The Madness of King George").

King George III gave the silver service and part of the coronation robe off his back to the Anglican Cathedral. Photo © by Judy Wells.

The pews were made of wood from the Royal Windsor Forest, the silver was a gift from the king and the altar cloth is from his coronation robes.

Ursuline Chapel. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Museum of Ursuline Sisters is considered one of the finest examples of convent architecture in North America and contains items from the oldest teaching community in the country.

David Mendel of Mendel Tours, an expert on Quebec City history, gives a fascinating and informative tour. 

The Inuit art will win you over at the fine arts museum. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Don't miss the art. The Musee national des beaux-arts du Quebec has a comprehensive collection of Quebec artists, including a room of superb Inuit art and another of Jean-Paul Riopelle. Best of all, pull open the drawers in the many cabinets scattered about and you'll discover a treasure trove of works on paper that enhance the work on display. The Restaurant du Musee will keep hungry gourmets happy, too.

Tip: There are stairs but there are elevators too.

Old town is magical at night; just watch out for the ice. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Wander through the city. Begin at the bottom. Some shops can be a bit touristy but most aren't and it's like a fairyland at night. Again, watch the ice.

Quebec City from the ferry. Photo © by Judy Wells.

While you're at the river, hop aboard the ferry.

Tip: There are 22 steps up to the ferry.

Get that Titanic feeling aboard the ferry. Photo © by Judy Wells.

There's really nothing to see or do on the other side but the views of Quebec City are grand and motoring through the ice will give you a Titanic moment.

Tip: Stairs are unavoidable as are hills in the old city. Lots of good places to stop and catch your breath while you leche le vitrine, "lick the windows," the quebecoise way to say window shop.

Getting Around
The ecolobus, an electric minibus designed for accessibility, travels through the city from ferry to Chateau Frontenac to Parliament levels. Fare is 2$ (Canadian) and exact change is required.

Dining
You'll be hard-pressed to find a bad meal in Quebec City.

A good place for croissants and more. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Le Petit Cochon Dingue (crazy pig) is a bakery/eatery known for its pastries and breakfasts. Warning: At the one across from the ferry, you will have to negotiate stairs to go from counter to dining area.
Le Graffiti on Cartier Avenue, produced the best meal I had with a fine touch for flavor and an excellent wine list. Worth a splurge.
Savini Resto-Bar is a very popular, sophisticated wine bar and Italian restaurant. Upstairs is quieter than the bar area.

Beavers everywhere at Beaver Tails. Photo © by Judy Wells.

Beaver Tails. You can get this whole-wheat pastry at Carnival, but I'd prefer the shop just a few doors from Le Petit Cochon Dengue. They make them fresh with your order, stretching the beaver tail-shaped pastry, frying, then adding butter and your choice of flavors - fresh bananas, chocolate, maple cream, whatever. It's a Canadian tradition favored by President Obama, Hillary Clinton and the musicians of Bare Naked Ladies.

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